In The News

Marylebone’s Memories and Dashing Tweeds by Guy Hills

I moved to Marylebone 54 years ago when I was a few months old, to York House on Upper Montagu Street. We lived in a flat halfway up the building and then my architect father decided to build his dream house on the roof. The house summed up the seventies, half Boogie Nights and half The Good Life; modern glass with diagonal wood panels and a field of wheat.

Marylebone was a very different place in the 1970’s I remember it as being a bit run down with ladies of the night hanging around the street corners and a slightly more transient population.

My grandparents lived along the road in Harley House and I remember being taken for treat teas at the French Sagne cafe on Marylebone High Street by my grandmother. The cakes were a dream and must have been responsible for my lifelong love of patisserie.

In my early teens I became interested in photography and set up a small darkroom at home. There was the most fabulous shop called Pelling and Cross on Baker Street which was one of the main photographic shops of London. I’d spend hours talking to the helpful staff and buying bulk black and white film and chemicals to do my own developing and printing. I’d walk regularly with my father to Chiltern Street where interesting independent shops have always been. My father would get his A1 architecture drawings reprographed at a printer and then sometimes drop by Grey Flannel for dandy new clothes. I still have some of his old clothes from Grey Flannel and also a rust red herringbone Harris tweed jacket from a shop on New Quebec Street called Bedford Riding Breeches.

We didn’t often eat out in my childhood and there weren’t so many places to go but I do have very fond memories of The Alpino, an Italian restaurant at the top corner of Marylebone High Street with its rough stucco walls, black beams and rustic charm. My brother and I would meet my grandfather there when he finished in his consulting rooms on Harley Street and have spaghetti slurping races with his amusing secretary before my mother and grandmother arrived.   

Marylebone has really been the geographical centre of my life. For school I headed north every day to Northbridge House at the corner of the park and then a few years later biked south, racing my brother through Mayfair to Westminster School. As a rule, I barely venture anywhere more than 30 minutes bike ride from Baker Street and this just about covers everywhere you need to go in London from a girlfriends in Chelsea to Clubs in Shoreditch.

Now that I’m married with three children and a dog I’ve ventured up to leafy Primrose Hill. I reside in sight of rocking canal boats and splash landing ducks but every morning I jump on my bike back to Marylebone and the streets of my youth.

I decided on a career change from my life as a professional fashion photographer about 15 years ago. Travelling for weeks at a time with a bus load of models is not conducive to family life and as the world turned digital most of the magazines, I worked for dwindled.

I’d had a love of clothes from as long as I can remember, sewing with my grandparents and stepmother and then fashioning rave outfits with help from the inhouse sewing adviser in John Lewis. I jumped at a photographic commission to work for a newly formed marketing board setup by the tailors of Savile Row. The job gave me carte blanche to photograph the archives of every tailor on the row and I arranged payment in tailoring, eventually having a tailored suit by almost all the houses. The tailors’ archives contained treasured pre-war swatches of fabulous tweeds in all sorts of bright colours and designs. I lusted after these sumptuously interesting fabrics but by the early noughties they had all but disappeared.

Inspired by the history of tailoring and with a desire to modernise tweed for an urban life in the 21st century I set about looking for interesting cloth. It was not until I met Kirsty at her degree show at The Royal College of Art that I could conceive of a way to make my sartorial dreams come true. Kirsty, with a first-class degree in weave was just the person I was looking for and together we setup Dashing Tweeds, a weave based tailoring company with a mission to create modern woven wool fabrics relevant to life today. We started by designing a fabric for cycling around London, an urban tweed with yellow lines against a pavement grey ground and with the inclusion of reflective yarns intricately woven in. Commission weavers in the Scottish Borders wove a 60m piece for us. I only needed 6 for myself so selling the rest to fund the project seemed the obviously answer. Luckily Converse shoes read about us and ended up buying enough fabric to make thousands of pairs of co-branded trainers. Dashing Tweeds had a hit and a shop was needed.

We soon out grew our tiny shop in Sackville Street and it took me no time at all to realise that Chiltern Street was the place to be. In fact, we moved into the old Wide Screen Centre shop at the corner with Dorset Street and upon viewing the space I knew immediately that was the home Dashing Tweeds needed.

We could not be happier now that we are settled after five years in Dorset Street. The area becomes more vibrant by the day and we have a steady stream of the right kind of customers. Those who delight in our creative offerings of new fabrics and take pleasure from having them tailored by us and the various tailors we work with. Our business is now thriving and our fabrics are sought after by people in the know worldwide. We supply almost all the major film costume designs with cloth, we have to sign NDAs and are delighted when our cloth is worn by star characters from Mary Poppins to moody Sci-Fi heroes.

I’m in the shop most days so do drop by anytime and say hello, we like to inspire customers to think of garments they would like to bespeak from us and then make their sartorial dreams come true.

From Ma Planning committee

We have several serious concerns about these proposals:

· Sustainability and Energy

The council has announced a climate emergency and yet the alterations to this building have a BREEAM target of “Excellent” rather than “Outstanding”. This is unacceptable.

There is nowhere near enough commitment shown in the application to the need to improve the environmental performance of this building. The applicant claims that upgrades to the building solid fabric will not be possible due to heritage concerns. This is extremely unconvincing.

The applicant has shown some indications of secondary glazing and double glazing, but there is nowhere near enough detail on this.

The applicant mentions their intention to use air source heat pumps but doesn’t mention how heat will be delivered in the building and whether or not there will be a need to produce cooling.

There is no indication of how the secondary glazing in the sports hall roof light will operate to alleviate the overheating problem that occurs in summer.

As currently designed, it seems there will be a significant requirement for mechanical ventilation in most of the building but there doesn’t seem to be detail as to how this is being provided.

· Entrance and Circulation

We are strongly opposed to the council’s insistence on having a single entrance to the building. It may result in lower staff costs, but having an entrance to the library and café through the same door on Seymour Place as the leisure centre uses results in a mean-spirited and insular building which is supposed to be welcoming and open. It is surely obvious that the entrance to the café and library should be through the Bryanston Place entrance to the building which already exists

The location of the soft play area is as far away as it is possible to be from the café. Anyone who has used a play space such as this knows that proximity to the café would be highly desirable.

· Use and Location

We accept that the questionable decision to locate the library in this building is not a matter relating to this planning application.

Large amounts of space have recently appeared on the plan noted as “flexible/office”. We think the applicant should explain what they plan for these areas.

· Design and Heritage

In spite of the significant alterations to the uses inside, no noticeable external alterations are being made to the building. In 2023, we would expect any new, or newly refurbished public building containing a library, leisure uses, and large amounts of community space to be welcoming, open, inviting and appealing. No significant efforts whatsoever have been made to do this. Instead from outside we have a building designed in the early 20th century which is, relatively solid, closed, unappealing and unwelcoming.

The heritage of the building could easily be protected and enhanced even with increased and enlarged openings along the south elevation and perhaps on the south-east and south-west corners. Creating some external space for users of the building when the weather is good would also be easily achieved within the constraints of the historic building. Both of these moves would help the building attract people in, and make it much more generous and public-spirited.

The three computer generated images of the proposed building interiors show an appalling lack of interest in creating a high-quality, modern, attractive and engaging public building. Moreover, these images demonstrate a lack of understanding of the importance of the historic fabric. Cheap aluminium glazing, vinyl flooring and brilliant white paint shown in these images is not acceptable for a sensitive refurbishment of an important public building.

There are many examples of recently designed, high quality library and leisure buildings in the UK and elsewhere showing how public buildings can offer new uses and provide additional services within a welcoming environment. The applicant needs to look at some of these and take on board a much more ambitious and modern approach to the future of this building rather than one that is stuck in the mid-20th century.

This application seeks to create an extremely important public building for the future of our neighbourhood. Unfortunately it shows a notable lack of ambition, together with an apparent lack of understanding of the potential of a building project such as this.

1. Scale and massing. We have significant concerns over the excessive height and bulk of the proposed development which will cause harm to the Portman Estate Conservation Area. The impact of the proposed massing on the townscape views and to the properties to the east backing onto Broadstone Place is detrimental.

2. Conservation: Removal of existing buildings which have some local merit, numbers 70-62 is unwelcome, especially no.62-64 which, above ground floor, is a decent example of stone architecture from the 1930s in the Marylebone area and the justification for their replacement with a singular architecture is convenient rather than convincing.

3. Townscape analysis: we concur with the analysis, put forward by the Wendover Court Management Ltd objection on behalf of local residents that the application site is half the urban block, which extends to Chiltern Street to the east and that the proposals should be considered in this context.

4. Sustainability: the embodied carbon of existing buildings is assessed and considered and deemed to be outweighed by the long term carbon benefits of the proposals. We expect WCC to consider the proposed demolition over refurbishment in the light of the Marks & Spencer case and to be consistent with this.

5. Pattern of development: the removal of smaller development parcels and the agglomeration into a single large development with a central entrance is an unwelcome intervention into an area mostly characterised by smaller development footprints, with the building opposite on Baker Street being an unusual exception. It is not in keeping with the urban grain or rhythm of the local area.

6. The relative inflexibility of a central entrance and two cores means that the future development can at most be divided into two, rather than more (eg. four if two entrances had been centred on the cores). While this may appeal to the office market at present, this seems an inherently inflexible approach that is thus less sustainable than a more flexible, multi entrance design. We do not agree that the proposed configuration represents a ‘future proofed and flexible’ building which is the ambition stated in the design and access statement

7. Design and architecture: the proposed architectural language is unusual in the area. While there is nothing inherently wrong with this, we encourage contemporary architecture in Marylebone to be of exemplary quality in order to be supportive of it. In our view the proposals do not yet reach this standard. The lack of variety in elevational treatment over such a long facade, including turning the corners onto Blandford and Dorset Street is unwelcome and the detail lacks the refinement of some other distinguished works by the architect. The design of the central entrance is prosaic and would benefit from refinement. Further design development of the elevations would be welcomed and perhaps should be subject to comment from Westminsters imminent Design Review Panel.

8. Residential quality: the proposed homes are mostly single aspect and we do not accept that an internal bay that allows oblique views at 45 degrees qualifies as providing adequate dual aspect, as required by the GLA.

The Howard de Walden Estate intends on submitting a planning application under the Town and Country Planning Act 1990 in relation to the following proposed development:

‘Partial excavation of existing rear garden to create a new two storey link extension behind 25 Wimpole Street and 18-20 Harley Place to provide either Class E (e) medical or Class E (g)(ii) research and development space in conjunction with a new single storey basement and mansard roof extension at 18-20 Harley Place, installation of new plant on main roof at 25 Wimpole Street and new rear garden and outdoor terrace spaces to the rear of 18-20 Harley Place and 25 Wimpole Street.’

Prior to submitting this application to Westminster City Council, The Howard de Walden Estate would like to invite you to attend any of the consultation events below to find out more about our proposals in detail, but also provide a chance for you to ask more questions and gather more detail about our proposals at this stage.

Please find the dates and times of these sessions below:

Tuesday 10th January: 10:00- 12:00 and 18:30-20:30 - Drop in event

Thursday 12th January: 12:00-14:00 - Drop in event

Monday 16th January: 10:00- 11:30 - Presentation online

Thursday 19th January: 12:00- 13:30 – Presentation online and 18:30-20:00 - Drop in event

All in person events will be held at The Howard de Walden Estate offices, however, please confirm via the e- mail address below if you would like to attend the online event and a link will be sent to you in due course.

Alternatively, if you are unable to attend any of the sessions above, further information regarding the proposals will be available at the beginning of January via The Howard de Walden Estate website: https://www.hdwe.co.uk/our-properties/projects 

Leader of Westminster City Council and the other councillors who are part of the Cabinet: https://www.westminster.gov.uk/cabinet

Councillor David Boothroyd, Finance and Council Reform

Councillor Tim Roca, Deputy Leader, and Young People, Learning and Leisure

Councillor Geoff Barraclough, Business and Planning

Councillor Nafsika Butler Thalassis, Adult Social Care, Public Health and Voluntary Sector

Cllr Adam Hug, Leader Elect of Westminster City Council

Councillor Matt Noble, Chief Whip and Climate Action, Regeneration & Renters

Councillor Paul Dimoldenberg, City Management and Air Quality

Councillor Aicha Less, Deputy Leader, and Communities and Public Protection

Councillor Liza Begum, Housing Services

Visit the virtual exhibition for the emerging proposals for the future of Garfield House, 86 - 110 Edgware Road, W2 2EA. - Have you say on the proposed development.

Visit https://garfieldhouseconsultation.co.uk/have-your-say/

The first stage of consultation is running until 16th February 2022

Tell me a bit about yourself?

 My name is Cristina Rodriguez, and I live and work in Marylebone. I opened 94YS Marylebone, with the support of BBLUR architecture www.bblur.com, in October 2019, just before the first Covid lockdown: Perfect timing, however, it has been a tremendous success, and 94YS Marylebone www.94YS.co.uk is thriving both at our store and online. I am Spanish.

 Where did your inspiration come from?

The inspiration for the brand name 94YS came from the numerological meaning of wisdom, humanitarianism and self-sufficiency associated with the number 94 and the YS is an abbreviation of Yo Soy which means I Am in Spanish. 94YS jewellery represents confident, outward-looking women that are comfortable in themselves. My philosophy for the brand is to provide pretty feminine, timeless, high-quality design jewellery pieces that are comfortable to wear formally or casually.

Tell me about some of your pieces?

My jewellery is made with high-quality gold plating on sterling silver to be wearable by people with allergies. I have deliberately set a price point that is accessible to all. My shop is located on York Street at the corner of Seymour Place just a 5-minute walk from Marylebone Station. It is a bright, elegant and welcoming environment for people to enjoy. I am delighted to say that our entire range of pieces is popular. However, the LUNA necklace and the BLACK STAR necklace and earrings are particular favourites of our customers. Our coloured glass necklaces, earrings and evil eye bracelets are perfect for spring and summer. I am constantly evolving our designs, and I am excited by a new capsule collection that I will be introducing in the next few weeks. It is a design collaboration with Carmen Montero Mundt, and the pieces have an easy, sophisticated elegance. I am also designing a bespoke jewellery piece to support the CRIS Cancer Foundation (”Cancer Research Innovation in Science”)charity. The new piece will be available later in the year. It is an exciting time for 94YS at the moment, and I’m delighted to be contributing to our vibrant corner of the varied, exciting street life of Marylebone. 

How long have you lived in Marylebone?

I am from Ireland and regularly visited Irish friends who lived in Marylebone. When I moved here for work in 2002, it seemed like an obvious and familiar option. Little did I know that I had just happened upon the best place to live in London! Now I can’t imagine living anywhere else! I live close to the High Street, with my 8-year-old daughter, Meera, and we are very well settled into Marylebone Village life.

I have heard you are a famous author and have written many books?

I am definitely not ‘famous’ (!) but I have had modest success in the business book publishing world, with six leadership books published since 2011. I set up my own leadership consulting business in 2004, working as a corporate leadership advisor to senior executive clients in companies such as Accenture and Microsoft. Early on I specialised in advising clients on their ‘First 100 Days’ and how to step up successfully into new senior leadership roles. This inspired my first book (still the best-selling) which is called ‘Your First 100 Days; how to make maximum impact in your new role’. I also work with clients on how to get promoted, and other key transition moments in their leadership career and role lifecycle.

The way I see the world is that we are just humans, with some having more power than others – our so-called ‘leaders’. If those leaders did a better job, the whole human race – and the planet! - would all be better off. This is what inspires me and keeps me motivated and excited in my role. In my own small way, I am trying to improve the quality of leadership in the world - one new leadership beginning at a time in the ‘First 100 Days’, or one better leader who I help get promoted, or one new book about how to improve your leadership skills.

Tell me about all the books you have written, and which book did you enjoy writing most?

The book I am most proud of writing is called ‘Future Shaper; how leaders can take charge in an uncertain world’. Rather than focus on a niche leadership topic, it is my leadership manifesto in its broadest sense – everything I wanted to say about how you can become a great leader, which is a mix of very basic ‘forgotten’ skills plus a whole new set of sophisticated ones for the world we live in now.

My next book venture is to write a leadership book series for children. This project is in the works and has not found a publisher yet. As my child progresses through the education system, I realised that leadership skills are not taught at school. It explained why we see such poor-quality leadership at the top of organisations and in government. How ironic – and tragic - that the most important skills to run our world are not being taught at school! I am writing a set of stories for children to absorb in terms of age-appropriate leadership skills to learn, and hopefully it will inspire them onto greatness. Our world needs better future leaders, now more than ever!

For anyone interested, you can find by business books listed in Daunts Marylebone.

Please find here the recent Newsletter from Marylebone Square with their progress update and photographs.

Dear all,

I am writing to update you on the plans for the Oxford Street District. We remain committed to supporting the future success of the nation’s favourite high street and its surrounding neighbourhoods. As you know, the case for investing in this area is even stronger following the pandemic and we remain focused on doing everything we can to deliver on this alongside our partners.

We have already made huge strides in delivering some real improvements to Oxford Street and the surrounding district by working closely with the local community, including new greening and seating on Oxford Street itself, the exciting work on the new Soho photography quarter and improvements for cyclists and pedestrians across the whole area. Independent analysis has shown that by 2030 the Council’s vision for the district, including the £150m Council investment, could deliver an uplift of over £2bn in economic value creation and over 30,000 additional jobs that will benefit local communities.

However, we have always been clear that all improvements must benefit residents as well as businesses and visitors and we want to make sure we consult openly and fully with local groups to ensure that their views can shape any of our proposals or schemes. Having listened to our residents and reviewed the cost effectiveness of the proposal for a pilot for the Oxford Circus piazzas, we have decided that it’s better to move forward with a focus on permanent schemes.

Therefore, the temporary piazzas previously planned to open at Oxford Circus later this year will not now go ahead, along with all associated enabling street works. We’ll be focusing on engaging with residents and other stakeholders on potential permanent schemes for piazzas at Oxford Circus, along with associated enabling works. We will shortly share the engagement and consultation approach and timetable but in moving forward we are committed to meeting key tests of a clear business case, meaningful engagement, and complete clarity on impact on residents and costs.

We firmly believe that it is critical that residents remain involved throughout the process and look forward to discussing this further with you at our regular meeting with Amenity Societies and Neighbourhood Forums next week.

Councillor Matthew Green

Cabinet Member for Business, Licensing and Planning

Councillor for Little Venice Ward

STATEMENT ON OXFORD STREET: On Tuesday 14 September, Councillor Matthew Green, Cabinet Member for Business, Licensing and Planning, gave an update on Westminster City Council’s plans for improvements to Oxford Street and the surrounding district. Cllr Green explained that the Council remains “committed to supporting the future success of the nation’s favourite high street and its surrounding neighbourhoods” and that the Council is “clear that all improvements must benefit our residents as well as businesses and visitors”. The Council will therefore move forward with a focus on permanent schemes and on consulting and engaging openly and fully with local groups. The temporary piazzas previously planned to open at Oxford Circus later this year will not go ahead. Read Councillor Green’s statement in full here.